“The Clearwater River flows westward from its headwaters in Broach Lake (also known as Lloyd Lake) in northwestern Saskatchewan, to its confluence with the Athabasca River near Fort McMurray, Alberta. The Clearwater River is, as its name implies, an unspoiled, clear-water river in a pristine wilderness setting of spectacular beauty.” This description, taken from the Canadian Heritage River website, accurately depicts this magnificent river.
Our group consisting of 8 canoers of varying degrees embarked on a seven-day excursion on the Clearwater River from Lloyd Lake to the Warner Rapids Bridge. We began by entering the waters at a remote location on the western shore of Lloyd Lake late in the afternoon of our first day. We paddled part way across the lake to a chosen spot for our first overnight camp.
The morning started early with our tour guide providing safety and other instructions ensuring we were ready for what lay ahead. The paddle across the rest of Lloyd Lake proved challenging as we faced a slight headwind. A short time after entering the mouth of the mighty Clearwater River we found a spot for a shore lunch and a much-needed rest. I marvelled at the pristine beauty that surrounded me as I sat on a large rock eating my lunch. Also, I wondered how my small-framed body was going to endure the days ahead but there was no turning back now.
After a short rest and some refreshments, we were soon back on the water. As the week continued, I believe my determination and endurance allowed my body to settle into the routine of paddling and I thoroughly enjoyed each leg of our journey.
As I paddled along with much time to think, my mind wandered to days long gone, to days of fur traders travelling this very route. The westward-flowing river that tumbled through a mixture of boreal forest and Precambrian shield allowed them a link to the Athabasca River at the city of Fort McMurray, Alberta and a connection to the west. I could see how the First Nations value this vast wilderness rich with natural resources. I reference the Canadian Heritage River website again:
“The Clearwater has served human communities since the pre-contact Indigenous cultures of 6,000 years ago. Contact between First Nations and Europeans first occurred in the 18th century, following Peter Pond’s use of the 19 km Methye Portage in 1778. A national historic site plaque commemorates the significance of the portage, which was an overland link on the Churchill-Clearwater-Athabasca route between Lac La Loche and the Clearwater and was used to avoid the Clearwater’s difficult Precambrian upper section. During the period of European exploration and the 18th-century fur trade, such notables as David Thompson, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, Peter Pond, Sir John Franklin and Sir George Simpson took advantage of this relatively quick exploration and trade route to the west. Competition among members of First Nations who were suppliers and guides to the fur trade during this period caused significant shifts in Indigenous territories. The Dene first displaced the Dane-zaa who were in turn displaced by the Cree. The Métis also played an important role along the river during the fur trade, and the community of Fort McMurray was built in 1870 to facilitate transportation across the Methye Portage.” I have seen the Methye Portage monument and trail from the air but one day I hoped I would be able to hike that trail, to follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before.
It is because of the history and culture mentioned above that the Clearwater received designation as a Canadian Heritage River. As described on the Canadian Heritage website: “The Clearwater River was designated on the strength of its outstanding natural and cultural heritage features, as well as its diverse opportunities for recreation. The Saskatchewan section consisting of 187 km from the outlet of Lloyd Lake to the Alberta border was designated in 1987, while the Alberta section, which includes the 31 km lower section of the Christina River, was designated in 2003. The total length of the designation is 326 km.”
The days of paddling proved very rewarding. The Clearwater River did not disappoint. It provided varying landscapes from swampland to boreal forested shores, from large sandbanks to rocky cliffs and almost everything in between. The river conditions changed from broad open sections of calm clear water to narrow channels of rushing water flowing between rocky crags creating challenging whitewater rapids. We chose to run some of the rapids but others we had no choice but to portage. We experienced some rainy days but mostly beautiful full blue skies of July sunshine. I couldn’t help but praise the God of the universe, the maker of all this pristine beauty.
At a couple of spots along our route, we stopped to study some of the unique history of the north. The Canadian Heritage River website describes these stops as such: “Three interesting and important pictographs are located on the upper (Saskatchewan) portion of the Clearwater between Lloyd and Careen Lakes. These reddish painted symbols and shapes on vertical rock surfaces are the furthest north and west of all such sites documented to date in Saskatchewan.” It was hard to comprehend that I was there viewing markings left there so long ago—what a special site, what a privilege!
On the seventh day as the Warner Rapids Bridge came into sight, I couldn’t help but have mixed emotions. I was elated that I had endured and had successfully made the trip without incident, yet I was a little sad that the end had come to a wonderful paddle on such a special river. Mostly I was so very thankful for the opportunity to see this unspoiled, natural beauty and experience this magnificent river set in the most pristine wilderness in northern Saskatchewan.
